How Much Is a Flat Roof Replacement in Nassau County?
So, how much is a flat roof replacement in Nassau County-really-and why are your quotes thousands of dollars apart? Here’s the straight answer: A full flat roof replacement in Nassau County typically runs $7,800 to $19,500 for residential projects between 300 and 1,000 square feet, with most homeowners landing somewhere between $11 and $16 per square foot depending on membrane choice, insulation upgrades, and how much rotten wood needs replacing. The reason your three estimates are all over the map has nothing to do with one roofer trying to rip you off-it’s because “flat roof replacement” isn’t one thing. It’s a system made of six separate cost layers, and every contractor is making different assumptions about which layers your job actually needs.
I’ve been tearing off and rebuilding flat roofs in Nassau County for 21 years, and the single biggest pricing confusion I see is this: homeowners think they’re comparing apples to apples when one bid says “$9,200” and another says “$15,700” for the same roof. They’re not. One guy is quoting a basic membrane swap with minimal wood repair. The other is pricing a full tear-off to deck, insulation upgrade to current energy code, new tapered system for drainage, and proper flashing details that’ll actually last. Neither is wrong-they’re just answering different questions. Let’s unpack what you’re actually paying for so you can understand your bids and set a realistic budget.
The Six Cost Layers Every Nassau County Flat Roof Replacement Includes (or Should)
When I scope a flat roof replacement, I break the cost into six main buckets. Every single one of these shows up on your bill, whether the contractor itemizes them or not:
1. Size and access. This is your base multiplier. A 400-square-foot garage roof in Elmont with easy ladder access and a clear driveway for the dumpster costs me about $4,800 to $6,200 in labor and materials for a mid-grade EPDM replacement. Take that same 400 square feet, put it on a third-floor deck in Long Beach where we need scaffolding, a crane day to lift materials, and we’re working around AC condensers and rooftop mechanicals-now we’re at $7,100 to $8,900. The roof didn’t change. The getting to it did.
2. Tear-off and disposal. In Nassau County, dump fees and disposal permits add $85 to $140 per ton of debris, and a typical 500-square-foot flat roof with two layers of old felt and gravel weighs about 3,800 to 4,500 pounds. That’s roughly $190 to $285 just in dump fees, plus the labor to tear off, haul down, and load. If your roof has three layers-common on homes built in the ’60s and ’70s in Oceanside and Freeport-you’re looking at closer to $425 to $580 in disposal alone. A contractor who quotes “roof replacement” but doesn’t mention tear-off is either rolling it into one vague number or planning to roof over the old layers, which I’ll never recommend because it hides rot and adds dead load to a structure that wasn’t designed for it.
3. Wood deck repair. This is the wild card that blows up budgets. I can’t tell you how much wood repair your roof needs until we pull off the old membrane, but here’s what I see in Nassau County: about 60 percent of flat roofs I tear off have some rot-ponding water sat too long, a gutter backed up for years, or the original builder used 2 pine sheathing instead of CDX plywood. On a 600-square-foot roof, replacing 20 percent of the deck (about three sheets of 5/8″ CDX at $58 per sheet, plus blocking and labor) adds $780 to $1,100. On a really bad roof where the joists are spongy and we’re sistering in new framing, I’ve had wood repair alone run $2,400 on a 700-square-foot job. Any contractor who promises you a firm price without at least climbing up to probe the deck with an awl is guessing-and that guess usually comes back as a change order halfway through your job.
4. Insulation and energy code. New York State energy code (as of the 2020 update) requires a minimum R-30 insulation for flat roofs in climate zone 4A, which is all of Nassau County. If your roof was last done in 1987 and has two inches of white beadboard under the old felt, you’re sitting at about R-10. To hit R-30, we’re adding either polyiso rigid board (roughly $1.85 per square foot installed) or a combination of polyiso and tapered insulation to create positive drainage. On that same 600-square-foot roof, bringing insulation up to code adds $1,100 to $1,650. Some contractors skip this because code enforcement in Nassau County doesn’t always catch it on re-roof permits-but your heating bill will catch it every winter, and so will the next buyer’s home inspector.
5. Membrane type and warranty. This is where you actually get to make a choice. The three most common flat roof membranes in Nassau County residential work are EPDM rubber, TPO, and modified bitumen (torch-down or cold-applied). Here’s what each one costs installed and what you get:
| Membrane Type | Cost Per Sq Ft (Installed) | Expected Lifespan | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| EPDM Rubber | $6.50 – $9.20 | 18-25 years | Budget-conscious, non-walkable roofs; good puncture resistance |
| TPO (white) | $7.80 – $11.50 | 20-28 years | Energy savings (reflective); popular on commercial but works great residential |
| Modified Bitumen (2-ply torch) | $8.40 – $12.80 | 20-30 years | High-traffic decks, traditional look; best adhesion in high wind areas near water |
| PVC | $10.20 – $15.50 | 25-35 years | Chemical resistance, commercial-grade performance; overkill for most residential |
On a 500-square-foot garage roof in Westbury, switching from basic EPDM to a fully-adhered white TPO added about $650 to the total price-but the homeowner’s attic temp dropped 14 degrees that first summer and their AC runtime fell enough to pay back that difference in four seasons. On the flip side, I’ve seen homeowners spec PVC for a simple shed roof because a salesman scared them about punctures, and they paid $2,100 more than they needed to for a membrane that’ll outlast the structure itself.
6. Flashing, edge metal, and drainage. This is the detail work that separates a ten-year roof from a twenty-five-year roof, and it’s where cheap bids cut corners. Proper flashing means new drip edge, new step flashing where the roof meets a wall, pitch pans or pipe boots for any penetrations, and either new or rebuilt scuppers and overflow drains if your roof is surrounded by parapet walls. On a typical residential flat roof with two walls, a chimney, and three roof drains, quality flashing and sheet metal work adds $890 to $1,650 to the job. I’ve seen contractors skip the counterflashing and just run membrane up the wall six inches-it’ll leak within three years when the UV breaks down that exposed edge. We also frequently add tapered insulation or crickets to eliminate ponding zones; on a 400-square-foot roof in Valley Stream with a chronic low spot, adding a tapered system to push water toward the drain cost the homeowner an extra $720 but solved a problem that had caused two emergency leak calls in the prior four years.
Real Nassau County Pricing: Three Tiers and What You Actually Get
When I quote a flat roof replacement, I give homeowners three options so they can see exactly where their money goes and make an informed trade-off. Here’s what those tiers look like on a real 600-square-foot garage roof in Merrick-same structure, three different approaches:
Minimum Safe Replacement: $7,200 – $8,900. Full tear-off to deck, replace visibly damaged wood (budget $600 for wood repair allowance), install one layer of 1.5″ polyiso insulation (gets you to about R-9, not code but better than nothing), fully-adhered 60-mil EPDM, aluminum drip edge and new pipe boots, basic cleanup. This roof will last 15 to 18 years if the structure stays dry, and it’s the right call if you’re selling in two years or the building itself only has ten years of life left. It’s not the roof I’d put on my own house, but it’s honest work and it won’t leak next month.
Smart Middle Replacement: $10,800 – $13,200. Full tear-off, realistic wood repair allowance ($1,200-enough to replace up to 30 percent of the deck if needed), full R-30 insulation upgrade with tapered system to eliminate the ponding zone near the back corner, 80-mil white TPO fully adhered, all new flashing including stepped counterflashing at the wall, powder-coated aluminum edge metal, and a ten-year labor warranty from us plus the manufacturer’s 20-year material warranty. This is where most of my residential clients land because it’s the last roof they’ll put on this structure for 25+ years, it meets code, and the energy savings are real-one customer in East Meadow cut his summer cooling cost by about $38 a month after we went from black EPDM to white TPO on an 800-square-foot roof over his finished bonus room.
Long-Term Upgrade: $15,400 – $18,700. Everything in the middle tier, but we step up to a two-ply modified bitumen system with a granulated cap sheet (looks traditional, performs great in coastal wind), we add an ice-and-water shield underlayment at all edges and penetrations for extra insurance, we rebuild or add new overflow scuppers if the existing drains ever clog, and we include a 15-year labor warranty. I usually only recommend this tier if the roof is over finished living space where a leak would wreck $15,000 worth of ceilings and furniture, or if the building is near the water in Long Beach or Point Lookout where wind-driven rain is a constant threat. The extra $4,000 to $5,000 buys you peace of mind and a roof system that’ll hit 30 years with minimal maintenance.
Why Your Three Bids Are Thousands Apart
Now you can see why your quotes don’t match. Contractor A quoted $8,200 for that 600-square-foot garage-he’s doing the minimum safe job, assuming light wood repair, skipping the insulation upgrade, and using the cheapest EPDM he can source. Contractor B came in at $12,400-he’s assuming moderate wood rot based on the age of the structure, he’s bringing you to R-30, and he’s installing TPO with real flashing details. Contractor C quoted $17,100-he’s pricing the deluxe modified bit system, full tapered insulation, and he’s padding his wood repair number because he got burned on three jobs last year where “a little rot” turned into full deck replacement.
None of these guys is necessarily trying to rip you off (though if someone quotes 40 percent below everyone else, that’s a red flag). They’re just making different assumptions about scope. Your job is to ask each contractor: What exactly does your price include? How much wood repair is in that number? Are you bringing my insulation to code? What membrane and what thickness? What’s your warranty? If a contractor can’t answer those questions with specifics, or if he says “we’ll figure it out once we get up there,” you’re signing up for change orders and schedule delays.
Hidden Costs and Surprise Add-Ons You Should Budget For
Even with a detailed estimate, three things frequently pop up mid-job that add cost:
Structural issues. If we pull off the membrane and find that your roof joists are sagging or undersized for the load (common in garages and additions that were permitted in the ’70s under old code), we’re required to notify the building department and bring the structure up to current standards. On a 500-square-foot roof in Hicksville, we found 2×6 joists on 24-inch centers where code required 2x8s on 16-inch centers; sistering in new joists added $2,850 to the job and pushed the schedule back a week. It’s not optional-once we see it and document it, we’re liable if we cover it back up.
Permit and inspection fees. Nassau County requires a building permit for any roof replacement over 100 square feet. Permit fees run $240 to $520 depending on project value, and you’ll need at least one inspection (sometimes two if you’re doing structural work). Most contractors roll this into their estimate, but if you’re getting a suspiciously low bid, ask if permits are included-I’ve seen unlicensed crews skip permits entirely, which means no inspection, no certificate of completion, and a potential nightmare when you try to sell or file an insurance claim after a storm.
Access and staging nightmares. If your flat roof is only accessible through your house, or if we need to close off your driveway for a week to stage materials and park the dumpster, those logistics cost money. On a recent job in Garden City where the homeowner’s HOA wouldn’t let us block the street and the only access was a narrow side yard, we had to hand-carry every sheet of plywood and insulation board through a 34-inch gate-added two days of labor and about $950 to the total. It’s not something we can always predict from a walk-around estimate, but an experienced contractor will flag it during the site visit.
How to Get an Accurate Flat Roof Replacement Quote
If you want a realistic number and not a vague guess that’ll double once the tear-off starts, do this:
Invite the contractor up onto the roof during the estimate. Anyone who quotes from the ground is guessing about wood condition and drainage problems. A good estimator will probe the deck with an awl or screwdriver in a few spots, check the slope with a level, and look at how water is (or isn’t) draining.
Ask for the estimate broken out by line item-not one lump sum. You want to see: tear-off and disposal, wood repair allowance, insulation type and R-value, membrane type and thickness, flashing and metal, labor, permits. If the contractor says “I don’t break it out like that,” you’re going to have zero leverage when costs change mid-job.
Get clarity on the wood repair allowance upfront. I usually include $800 to $1,400 in my base estimate to cover typical rot (10 to 20 percent of the deck), and I specify that additional wood repair beyond that allowance is billed at $95 per sheet of CDX installed. That way, if we uncover a mess, the homeowner knows exactly what the extra cost will be before we proceed-no surprise $3,200 change order on day three of the job.
Ask what warranty you’re getting and who backs it. A “lifetime warranty” that disappears when the contractor closes his LLC next year is worth nothing. You want a written labor warranty (typically 5 to 15 years from a reputable contractor) plus the manufacturer’s material warranty, and you want documentation that the contractor is certified by the membrane manufacturer so that material warranty is actually valid.
What Flat Roof Replacement Actually Costs on Common Nassau County Structures
To give you a real-world baseline, here’s what I’ve bid and completed in the past 18 months on typical Nassau County projects:
Single-car detached garage, 320 square feet, Freeport. Tear-off of two layers of felt and gravel, replaced four sheets of rotted CDX along the back edge, R-30 polyiso insulation, 60-mil EPDM fully adhered, new aluminum edge trim, two new pipe boots. Total: $7,850. Job took three days start to finish.
Two-story addition flat roof over living space, 680 square feet, Massapequa. Full tear-off, 18 percent deck replacement, R-30 insulation with tapered crickets to eliminate two ponding areas, 80-mil white TPO, rebuilt all wall flashing and added overflow scupper, ten-year labor warranty. Total: $13,200. This one saved the homeowners about $420 a year in AC cost based on their first full summer with the new white roof.
Commercial flat roof over retail space, 1,140 square feet, Mineola. Two-ply modified bitumen torch-down system, full R-30 insulation upgrade, extensive wood repair (about 35 percent of the deck was toast from years of ponding), new parapet cap metal and through-wall flashing, permit and two inspections. Total: $22,100. The wood repair alone was $4,700 of that number-this is why I never quote commercial flat roofs firm-price without a thorough deck inspection first.
When Flat Roof Replacement Is Actually Worth Delaying
Not every aging flat roof needs replacing today. If your roof is 14 years old, you’re seeing some surface cracking and minor granule loss, but there are no active leaks and the deck is still solid when you walk it, you might get another three to five years with a good elastomeric coating. A quality roof coating costs $3.20 to $4.80 per square foot installed-so about $1,900 to $2,900 for a 600-square-foot roof-and it buys you time to save up for the full replacement or wait out a planned renovation. I coated a garage roof in Wantagh four years ago that’s still going strong; the homeowner’s planning to replace it next spring, but the $2,400 coating job let him push that $11,000 replacement out of a tight-budget year.
On the other hand, if you’ve got active leaks, visible ponding water that sits for more than 48 hours after a rain, or your roof is over finished living space and you’re seeing interior stains, don’t wait. Water damage compounds fast, and the longer you let a bad roof sit, the more expensive the wood repair gets when you finally do pull the trigger.
Working With Platinum Flat Roofing on Your Nassau County Replacement
We’ve been handling flat roof replacements across Nassau County since 2004, and our process is built around transparency and realistic budgeting. When you call us for an estimate, we’ll schedule a site visit where we actually get up on your roof, probe the deck, measure for real (not guess from Google Earth), and talk through what your specific structure needs. You’ll get a written estimate broken out by every cost layer we covered in this article, a realistic wood repair allowance based on what we found during the inspection, and three pricing tiers so you can choose the level of system that fits your budget and your plans for the building.
We’re not the cheapest bid you’ll get-but we’re also not the guys who’ll call you on day two with a $4,000 change order because we “found some bad wood.” We price jobs the way we’d want them priced if it was our own house: honest numbers, clear scope, and room in the budget for the surprises that always show up when you peel back a 40-year-old roof.
If you’re trying to figure out how much your flat roof replacement is really going to cost, give us a call. We’ll walk the roof with you, explain exactly what we’re seeing, and give you a number you can actually trust.





